Eating and drinking Food is one of Xiamen’s assets, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood, pal:tic- ularly oysters, crabs and prawns. The best place to try some is in restaurants around Gulangyu’s market area, but make sure you establish a price in advance: the seafood is usually sold by weight, not per portion. Otherwise the city cen- tre is thick with places to eat: for peanut buns and soups (another regional speciality) check out Huangzehe Huasheng Taugdian, a crowded, noisy canteen on Zhongshan Lu. More local snacks - everything, in fact, from spring rolls, noo- dle soups and dumplings to whole baked crabs - are on offer at Xin Nan Xuan jiujia on Sinning Lu. Nanputuo Si’s vegetarian restaurant is expensive for what you get, with set meals at RMB30-80, depending on the number of dishes you want; across from the temple and near the University, Gon~de Caiguan is anoth- er, cheaper, vegetarian option. Also in the area, the Venezzia cafe is a nice spot with outdoor tables, cheapish beer and sliglntly overpriced Westernized meals; for more in this line, the Lujiang hotel on Gulangyu Island has a very pleasant rooftop cafe-restaurant upstairs, overlooking the sea, while it also serves excel- lent dim sum breakfasts and lunches on the lower floor. The Holiday Inn also has a lobby cafe charging RMB32 a pot, with accompanying cakes from RMB6.

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